Entrance to Mount Nebo

Mount Nebo has long been a place of pilgrimage. According to the Old Testament, Moses climbed this mountain to look out over the land of Canaan, though he was never permitted to enter it. Over time, the site has drawn visitors from Christian, Jewish, and Muslim traditions, all connected by the legacy of one of history’s most significant prophets.

Panoramic View From Mount Nebo

Archaeological evidence shows that early Christians recognized the importance of Mount Nebo as far back as the fourth century, when a monastic community settled there. They built a Byzantine church that was later expanded into what is now known as the Memorial Church of Moses. This structure remains central to the experience today and houses a remarkable collection of mosaics. These mosaics, which date back more than fifteen hundred years, depict scenes of daily life, nature, and animals, and are among the best-preserved examples of Byzantine art in Jordan.

Mosaics Visible on Both Sides of the Chapel

As we entered the archaeological park, the first thing we noticed was the calm and reflective atmosphere. The Memorial Church stands at the heart of the site, a modern Franciscan restoration built over the earlier Byzantine foundation. Inside, the mosaics immediately draw your attention. The level of detail and preservation is impressive, offering a vivid look into the artistic and cultural life of the time.

Incredible Mosaics Inside the Church

Outside the church, one of the most striking features is the Brazen Serpent sculpture, a large metal staff wrapped with a serpent. Created by Italian artist Giovanni Fantoni, it represents the bronze serpent from the Book of Numbers while also symbolizing the cross. It is a powerful visual that connects themes from both the Old and New Testaments.

Serpent Sculpture

The surrounding archaeological park includes the remains of monastic buildings, tombs, and water cisterns, all of which highlight the site’s long-standing role as a center of pilgrimage. Walking through these remains, it becomes clear how many layers of history are present in one place, from biblical tradition to Byzantine influence and beyond.

The Abo Bado (Byzantine Church Door)

The view from the summit is one of the most memorable aspects of Mount Nebo. From its elevation, the landscape opens up in every direction. On a clear day, it is possible to see the Dead Sea, the Jordan Valley, and even Jerusalem in the distance. Standing there, it is easy to understand why this location holds such deep meaning. A stone marker at the viewpoint identifies key biblical locations and their distances, adding another layer of connection to the landscape.

View Towards Israel From Mount Nebo

Mount Nebo is more than just a historical site. It is a place that invites reflection, whether you come for its religious significance, its archaeological importance, or simply the beauty of its setting. The peaceful surroundings, the ancient artwork, and the sense of continuity across centuries made it one of the highlights of our trip. For those planning a visit, arriving early can offer a quieter experience before larger groups arrive. It is not a place that requires a long visit, but it is one that rewards taking your time and appreciating everything it represents.

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Our resort had an abundance of wild rabbits.

One of the sloths at La Paz

Artificial waterfall behind our lunch buffet

More of the integration of natural and man-made elements at lunch

Waterfalls

Waterfalls

Waterfalls

Waterfalls

Ocelot

Cattle

Leopard

Mist rising from the falls and river in distance

Coati? I can’t recall what this small mammal was.

Toucan

Toucan

Toucan

Bird of Paradise plant

I hope you have enjoyed the photos! If anyone recognized the brown mammal in my photos, feel free to weigh in. It was in the same enclosure as the sloths (although separated).

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Entrance to the Church

The church itself sits on Madaba’s ancient acropolis, built on top of centuries of earlier structures. The current building is relatively modern, replacing churches that once stood in the same location. What remains of the earlier church has been preserved and repurposed as a visitor center, offering a thoughtful introduction to the site and its historical significance before you begin to explore further.

Inside the Church

Beneath the church, an underground museum reveals some of the most fascinating elements of the site. Recent excavations have uncovered a network of rooms and passageways that provide insight into earlier periods of life in Madaba. The most striking feature is the ancient Moabite well, believed to be more than three thousand years old. Carved deep into stone, it is easy to imagine how this well once sustained generations of people, connecting the modern visitor to a much older world.

For those willing to make the climb, the bell tower offers a rewarding perspective. The ascent itself is a bit of an adventure, as you move past large bells on the way up, but the view from the top makes the effort worthwhile. From there, you can take in a wide panorama of Madaba, a vantage point that helps place the city’s long history into a modern context.

Beneath the Bell in the Bell Tower

Inside, the chapel serves as an active place of worship while honoring the site’s biblical connection. An icon depicting the beheading of John the Baptist marks the significance of the location and draws visitors who come for both historical interest and spiritual reflection. Madaba is often referred to as the City of Mosaics, and that influence is present even here. The design of the church subtly reflects the region’s artistic heritage, a quiet reminder of the craftsmanship that defines so much of the city.

The Arabic text on the wall reads “Behold the Lamb of God who takes away the sin of the world”

While we planned to revisit Madaba during our organized tour, this site was not included on that itinerary. Visiting the shrine offered a meaningful blend of experiences. From the underground chambers and ancient well to the views from the tower and the quiet atmosphere of the chapel, each part of the site contributed to a deeper understanding of Madaba’s past. It is a place that invites you to slow down, look a little closer, and appreciate the many layers of history that come together in one location. We were glad for the extra time in Madaba.

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Mukawir From A Distance

Our visit to Mukawir turned out to be one of the most unique experiences of the trip. There were no other visitors at the site, which gave us the rare opportunity to explore the ruins in complete solitude. The quiet was striking, broken only by the wind moving across the hilltop, and it created a sense of stepping back into another time.

The Long and Winding Road

Getting there was part of the experience. The drive from Madaba takes about an hour and follows the scenic King’s Highway through rugged terrain. As we approached the site, the road narrowed and climbed steadily before we reached the base of the fortress. From there, we made our way up a steep, winding staircase that led to the summit. It is a bit of a climb, but one that is well worth the effort.

Exploring the Palace Ruins

At the top, we explored what remains of Herod’s palace, along with ancient water cisterns and the scattered stone foundations of what were once large and important structures. Standing along the edge of the ruins, we looked out over the Dead Sea, which shimmered in the distance despite the overcast sky. On a clearer day, it is possible to see as far as Jericho and even Jerusalem, though the conditions limited our view.

Possibly Jail Where John the Baptist was Held

Despite its historical significance, Mukawir remains one of the less-visited archaeological sites in Jordan. It lacks the crowds of places like Petra or Jerash, which gives it a quieter and more untouched feel. That sense of isolation adds to the experience and makes it particularly appealing for those who prefer a more personal connection to the places they visit.

Palace Courtyard at Mukawir

There are very few facilities at the site, with no large visitor center or nearby cafés, but that simplicity only reinforces the authenticity of the experience. Mukawir stands largely as it is, shaped by time and history, offering a powerful reminder of the events that once unfolded there. For anyone interested in Jordan’s past, it is a place that leaves a lasting impression.

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Dear Cleveland,

I knew you first through mittens

your cold a gift we brothers shared like secrets,

packing powdered snow into walls,

into ramparts,

invincible forts we believed would stand

against imaginary threats.

We did not know then the chill that lingers.

We departed while I was still young enough

to forget the weight of your winters.

But you hold more than memories

kept in the only way you know.

I have come back to you in winter,

always winter.

Each time your sky heavy

with the same low gray,

your frozen ground maintaining

a stoic iron silence,

your earth opens its dark mouth

to receive my offerings.

My grandmother. My mother. My brother.

Three gifts, three returns.

And you received them all with quiet cold

folding them into your frozen bosom

the way a mother receives

a small treasure from her child.

I used to think you helped us build

snow forts on bright December mornings.

Now I know you offered nothing more than cold.

Frozen ground.

The warmth was always them.

And Cleveland, I treasure that still

your promise of possession.

Yet all the warmth you could not offer

wraps around me still,

shielding me

from the dark frost of your winters.

The idea of poetry in the form of a letter dates back to Horace. This is just my take on that concept.

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The restaurant is set inside a villa on Abu Tammam Street near the Second Circle. It strikes a nice balance between modern design and a comfortable, welcoming atmosphere. We felt relaxed without seeming overly casual, the kind of place that works just as well for a quiet dinner as it would for a small group gathering. There is both indoor and outdoor seating, giving it some flexibility depending on the evening.

Rocca Salad at Sheen

My wife and I ordered a few dishes to share, which has become our preferred way to experience a menu when traveling. The Rocca salad stood out immediately and ended up being the best salad we had during our entire two weeks in Jordan. Everything about it worked, from the freshness of the greens to the balance of flavors. It was simple, but done exceptionally well.

Msakhan at Sheen

We also ordered the Chef’s Msakhan, a classic dish built around sumac-spiced chicken served over flatbread with onions and olive oil. It is a staple in the region and one I was looking forward to, but this particular preparation did not quite land for me. The flavors were there, but something about the execution left it just short of what I expected.

Batata Harra at Sheen

The Batata Harra, on the other hand, was an unexpected highlight. The potatoes were crispy, well-seasoned, and carried just the right amount of heat. It was one of those dishes that disappears quickly once it hits the table and easily became one of my favorites from the meal.

One small detail that stood out was the way the bread was presented. Instead of arriving in a basket, it was hung on metal hangers, which added a creative and memorable touch to the experience. It is a simple idea, but one that sticks with you.

Overall, Sheen offered a solid introduction to dining in Amman. Not every dish was a standout, but the quality of the food, the atmosphere, and the convenience of the location made it a worthwhile stop. If you are staying in central Amman and looking for a relaxed meal in a stylish setting, it is definitely a place worth trying.

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Sign Near Entrance to the Jesus Cave

The cave is tucked into the hills near Um Qais and is reached by a short drive followed by a walk along an unmarked path. It is modest in size, but its quiet and remote setting adds to its sense of mystery. Local tradition holds that Jesus may have sought refuge here during his journey to Gadara, the ancient name for Um Qais, where the New Testament describes him casting demons into a herd of pigs. Whether or not this specific cave is tied to that account, the connection is part of the region’s oral history and contributes to the site’s enduring appeal.

Low Entrance to Cave

Inside, the cave is simple and largely unadorned, with signs that it may have once been used as a shelter. It is easy to imagine it serving as a place of rest and protection for travelers or a retreat for those seeking solitude. Today, it carries a quiet sense of reverence, drawing visitors who are interested in its religious associations as well as those who appreciate its historical character. The journey to the cave also rewards visitors with sweeping views over the Jordan Valley and the Sea of Galilee, making the experience as visually striking as it is reflective.

Interior of the Cave

Reaching the cave is relatively straightforward, though it does require a bit of planning. From Um Qais, it is about a five kilometer drive toward Al Adassiyah, followed by a short walk from the parking area. For those using public transportation, buses run from Um Qais to Al Adassiyah, with an additional walk of roughly a kilometer and a half to reach the site. Taxis are also available and offer a more convenient option. In our case, the visit was included as part of our Um Qais tour, so we had a driver who took us directly to the area.

A View From Interior to Give Better Scale (Entrance in Distance)

While the Jesus Cave may not be among Jordan’s most widely known destinations, it is well worth a visit for those already exploring Um Qais and the surrounding region. Its blend of local tradition, historical intrigue, and natural beauty makes it a memorable stop.

Overlooking Sea of Galilee From Jordan

We would absolutely recommend a side trip to the cave for anyone interested in history, faith, or simply discovering a quieter, less-traveled corner of Jordan. An affordable side-trip treasure that can be found “off the beaten path.”

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Amphitheater at Umm Qais

When we arrived, the first thing that stood out was the stillness of the site. Aside from two other visitors, we had the ruins entirely to ourselves. That sense of space made it easy to move slowly and take in the significance of what we were seeing without distraction. To deepen the experience, we hired a local guide who had once lived among the ruins. His personal connection to the site added another layer to the history, blending ancient context with more recent memory and making it feel as though we were uncovering the story of Um Qais piece by piece.

When You Have An Ancient City To Yourselves

One of the most distinctive features of Um Qais is its Cardo, the main colonnaded street. In most Roman cities, the Cardo runs north to south, but here it runs east to west, making it a rare example of how Roman planners adapted their designs to the surrounding terrain. Walking along this ancient street, it was easy to imagine the movement of daily life, with merchants, citizens, and travelers once passing through the same path.

Strolling Through the Ruins of Umm Qais

Among the structures we explored was the West Theater, an impressive amphitheater built from the region’s black basalt stone. The dark volcanic material gives the structure a distinctive appearance and reflects the local geology. Standing within the theater, it was not difficult to picture the gatherings and performances that once filled the space. Nearby, we visited the remains of a basilica, which served as an important public and civic building during the Roman and Byzantine periods. We also ventured into a series of underground Roman tombs, which provided a more somber but equally compelling look at burial practices from the time.

Massive Stone Door Inside Umm Qais Tomb

Another highlight of the site was the nymphaeum, a grand public fountain that once supplied fresh water to the city. Its design and craftsmanship speak to the sophistication of Gadara at its height, and it offers a tangible reminder of how essential infrastructure supported daily life in the ancient world.

Newer Structures at Umm Qais

Um Qais also reflects more recent layers of history. During the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, Ottoman-era villagers built homes directly on top of the ruins, often using pre-cut Roman stones in their construction. Today, efforts are underway to preserve and restore these structures, creating an interesting blend of ancient and more modern history within the same space.

Panoramic View From Umm Qais

Beyond the ruins themselves, the views from Um Qais are remarkable. From the hilltop, we were able to take in a wide panorama that stretched across the Jordan Valley to the Sea of Galilee and the hills beyond. The combination of natural beauty and historical depth made the experience especially memorable.

Umm Qais Hasn’t Attempted Over-Reconstruction

For those interested in exploring a lesser-known archaeological site, Um Qais is well worth the visit. Whether you are drawn by the history, the scenery, or simply the opportunity to experience a place without large crowds, it offers something unique within Jordan’s already rich landscape.

Modern Structure Alongside the Ancient Ruins and Original Roman Road

We left with a strong appreciation for its layered history and a sense of gratitude for having experienced it in such a quiet and unhurried way. Hiring a knowledgeable local guide added meaningful context and helped bring the past into sharper focus. This was an awesome way to kick off our trip to Jordan.

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Grand Hyatt in Amman

From the moment we stepped into our room, the level of comfort was immediately apparent. The beds were plush and inviting, exactly what you want after long days of sightseeing. The room was thoughtfully designed with plenty of space, a well-appointed work area, and a full set of amenities that included high-quality toiletries and a well-stocked minibar. Housekeeping was consistently excellent, keeping everything clean and refreshed throughout our stay without ever being intrusive.

Grand Hyatt in Amman

One of the highlights of the hotel was the breakfast each morning. It was, without question, the most extensive breakfast spread we experienced anywhere on the trip. The buffet offered something for everyone, with options that covered Continental, Halal, Vegetarian, Vegan, and Gluten-Free diets. There were fresh pastries, live cooking stations, local dishes, and more than enough variety to keep things interesting over multiple days. Among the staff, Emad stood out for his attentiveness and warmth. He made a point to ensure guests felt welcomed, and that kind of personal touch goes a long way.

Sweets Section of the Breakfast Spread

Beyond the rooms and dining, the hotel offers a full range of amenities that make it easy to relax between outings. There is a spa, sauna, fitness center, and a swimming pool, all of which provide a welcome break from the pace of travel. The hotel also features two restaurants, The Lombard Amman and 32 North, both of which offer solid dining options if you prefer to stay in for the evening.

View of the Pool and City from our Floor

Location is another major advantage of the Grand Hyatt Amman. The hotel sits within walking distance of restaurants, cafés, and shops, making it easy to explore the surrounding area on foot. It is also a short drive to many of the city’s main attractions, including Rainbow Street, the Roman Theater, and the Jordan Museum, which makes getting around simple and efficient.

Grand Hyatt Amman Lobby

Looking back on our stay, the Grand Hyatt Amman exceeded expectations across the board. The combination of comfortable accommodations, an outstanding breakfast, attentive service, and a convenient location made it one of the highlights of our time in Jordan. Whether traveling for business or leisure, it is a place we would return to without hesitation.

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Petra “Treasury”

Our tour guide, Omar, was the best guide we have had on any Gate 1 tour, or any guided tour for that matter. These reflections cover a journey that stretched from the ruins of Jerash and Petra to the cultural centers of Amman and Madaba, along with the dramatic desert of Wadi Rum and the coastal setting of Aqaba.

Premium Seating (AA.com)

Our trip began with a flight from Raleigh to London on American Airlines. We upgraded from economy to Premium Economy, and for us, it was worth it. During our layover in London, we spent time in the Galleries South Lounge, which was spacious, clean, and well stocked with food options. It ended up being the highlight of what was otherwise a disappointing experience with British Airways. our opinion changed during our flight from London to Amman, where the lack of seat recline on a five-hour flight made for a less-than-stellar experience.

Grand Hyatt in Amman

Once in Amman, we checked into the Grand Hyatt, which served as an excellent base for both our independent exploration and the start of our guided tour. We were able to add on two days “pre-trip” reservations through Gate 1, which provided some continuity (we often book at a different hotel for our pre- or post-trips, so it was nnice not having to change hotels). The rooms were spacious and comfortable, the dining options were strong, and the service was excellent.

Umm Qais Amphitheater

The next morning, we set out early for Umm Qais and the Jesus Cave, which we booked through TripAdvisor. The Roman ruins, once part of the Decapolis, were impressive on their own, but what stood out just as much were the conversations with our driver, Mohammad. He shared insights into Jordanian culture and made sure we experienced local flavors along the way. We stopped for falafel sandwiches on the way, which were a whopping one dollar.

Sheen Restaurant, Amman

That evening, we had dinner at Sheen Restaurant, which was within walking distance of the hotel. It was a relaxed start to what would be a full itinerary.

Herod’s Palace at Mukawir

The following day, we met another driver, Basel, who proved to be just as engaging and knowledgeable. We traveled to Mukawir, where we explored the ruins of the palace associated with the execution of John the Baptist. Having the site entirely to ourselves created a quiet, reflective experience. It was a short hike, but well worth the effort (and minor compared to the hike up to the Citadel at Petra).

Church of Saint John, Madaba

From there, we stopped at an overlook at Wadi Mujib before heading into Madaba. Instead of visiting Saint George’s Church, which was already on our upcoming itinerary, Basel suggested the Church of Saint John. It turned out to be an excellent recommendation and one of the more memorable stops of the day. We also visited Mount Nebo briefly. We didn’t spend too much time at Nebo, knowing we would return in a couple of days.

Umm Khalil in Amman

After a full day, Basel drove us back to Amman and recommended several restaurants. We chose Umm Khalil based on proximity to our hotel. It turned out to be an outstanding dining experience. At the time, we thought it might be the best meal of the trip, though that misconception would later be challenged during our stay at the Dead Sea. One thing is certain, the food across Jordan was memorable.

Grand Hyatt Lobby, Amman

The following day, our Gate 1 tour officially began. We met Omar in the lobby of the Grand Hyatt, and from the start, it was clear we were in good hands. Omar explained Jordanian culture through his own personal stories and experiences, which made everything feel more connected and real. His knowledge and attention to detail elevated an already strong itinerary into something exceptional.

Hadrian’s Arch at Jerash, Amman

Our first major stop was Jerash, one of the best-preserved Roman cities in the world. Walking through Hadrian’s Arch and along the colonnaded streets, it was easy to imagine what the city once looked like at its peak. The theaters, plazas, and surrounding structures are remarkably intact. The scale and grandeur of the place still held fast to its roots.

Remnants of a Church at Jerash

The Byzantine churches added another layer of history, particularly the mosaics in the Church of St. Cosmos and Damian and the Church of St. John the Baptist. These details provided insight into the city’s later Christian period and helped connect different eras of the region’s history.

Excelsior Henderson SuperX (I Own a 2000 SuperX)

After lunch, we visited the Royal Automobile Museum before returning to Amman.

View of the Amphitheater From the Citadel

In Amman, we also explored the Citadel and Roman Theater. The remains of the Temple of Hercules. From the Citadel, the sweeping views over the city offered a striking contrast between ancient and modern.

Mosaic Map at Saint George’s Church in Madaba

In Madaba, we visited Saint George’s Church, home to the famous mosaic map of the Holy Land. We also stopped at Jordan Jewel Art & Mosaic, where we saw impressive craftsmanship. I would have loved to purchase a mosaic, but the pieces that caught my eye were well outside our budget. Lunch at Haret Jdoudna provided a great introduction to traditional Jordanian cuisine in a lively setting.

The Monastery at Petra

No visit to Jordan is complete without Petra. Entering through the Siq and seeing the Treasury emerge at the end is as impressive as advertised. We continued through the site, passing tombs and temples before making the climb to the Monastery. It was a challenging hike (with several stops to catch out breath), but the views at the top made it worthwhile.

A Dinner Guest at the Cave Bar at Petra

We also visited the Petra Museum, which added useful context about the Nabataean civilization. One of the more unique dining experiences came at the Cave Bar, set inside a first-century tomb. Before leaving, we stopped briefly at Little Petra, which offered a quieter extension of the main site.

Sunset at Wadi Rum

From Petra, we traveled into Wadi Rum. The desert landscape is vast and humbling, with sandstone formations and wide open space in every direction. We explored by 4x4 and camel before settling in at Sun City Camp, where we experienced Bedouin hospitality and a peaceful night under the stars.

View From Our Room at Kempinski Aqaba

Aqaba was quite different from northern Jordan. We stayed at the Kempinski Hotel, where our room overlooked the Red Sea. The setting was ideal for relaxing, but there was still plenty to explore. We visited Aqaba Castle and spent time at local restaurants and beach clubs. We snorkeled in the Red Sea (although it was a bit cold), took a cooking class by the sea, and enjoyed a short cruise along the coast.

Preparing to Create Sand Art

One unexpected highlight was a visit to Aqabawi Art Studio, where we learned how to create sand art. It was a fun and different experience, even if my final product did not quite resemble what I had in mind. My camel in the desert was a bit more ostrich than camel.

Home Hosted Lunch near Kerak

On the way to the Dead Sea, we visited Smakieh Christian School and Kerak Castle, followed by a home-hosted lunch where we were introduced to Maqlouba. These stops added depth to the trip by connecting historical and modern aspects of Jordanian life. Food at a family home is one of the best cultural immersions, in my experience. Our hosts were amazing.

View From Our Room at Kempinski Ishtar at the Dead Sea

At the Kempinski Ishtar Dead Sea, the focus shifted to relaxation. The resort offered incredible views, multiple pools, and direct access to the Dead Sea itself. Floating in the water is a unique experience that lives up to expectations. Not to mention covering yourselves in mud head to toe.

Remnants of First Century Church

Our final major stop was Bethany Beyond Jordan. Rain moved in that morning, which gave the site a different atmosphere. Omar shared detailed insight into the discovery of the location, including the role of archaeological work and historical texts. The remains of early religious structures support its significance as a likely baptism site of Jesus. Historical records add further credibility. The rain stopped and the clouds literally rolled back as we approached this meaningful Christian landmark. These photos were taken a few minutes apart, showing the difference in the sky.

The Clouds Rolled Back, Revealing Sunshine As We Arrived at Baptismal Site

Our return travel was complicated by a last-minute cancellation from British Airways, but we were able to rebook on Royal Jordanian, which turned out to be a better experience. We spent time in the Crown Lounge before departure, reflecting on the trip over coffee.

Royal Jordanian Lounge in Amman

Jordan offers a deeply layered experience. From ancient ruins to modern hospitality, from desert landscapes to coastal views, each stop adds something different. The combination of history, culture, and welcoming people makes it a destination that leaves a lasting impression.

Sun Setting at Marina in Aqaba

If you are interested in travel that combines meaning, history, and experience, Jordan is worth the trip. The Gate 1 Discovery Tour provided an excellent structure, but the country can just as easily be explored independently. I will be taking a deeper dive into some of these experiences in future articles. Stay tuned for more!

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Blu Bar and Grill Dining Room (courtesy Blu website)

After some searching, I came across Blu Bar & Grill, a restaurant overlooking the harbor that still had availability. It appeared to be about a mile from Hamilton, so I booked it without much hesitation. Only later did I realize that the distance was measured across the water rather than by road, which would have made walking far more complicated than expected. At that point, we had a reservation but no clear way to get there.

The solution ended up being far better than the original plan. Instead of trying to navigate taxis on a holiday, we realized we could take the ferry across the harbor, have dinner, and then catch one of the last buses back into Hamilton afterward. It was a bit of a gamble, but with limited alternatives, we decided to go for it.

Entrance to Blu

The ferry ride alone made it worthwhile. There’s something memorable about crossing the water on Christmas evening, the harbor quiet and still, with the lights of the island reflecting off the surface. When we arrived, the ferry dropped us off just below the restaurant. From there, it was a short walk up the hill and around to the front entrance (we had initially come in from the back side without realizing it).

Blu Chopped Salad

Inside, the atmosphere felt elevated but relaxed, a good balance for a holiday dinner. I had expected a prix fixe menu, but we were told that option was reserved for larger groups. Instead, we ordered from the regular menu, which actually worked out better and was less expensive than the fixed option would have been.

Filet with Mashed Potatoes

We started by splitting the Blu chopped salad, then moved on to our mains. I ordered the filet, while my wife chose the seafood spaghetti, and we added a side of potatoes to share. The meal was excellent. It well plated attractively, flavorful, and exactly what we were hoping for after the effort it took to get there. It wasn’t inexpensive, but for a Christmas dinner that we managed to book at the last minute, it felt well worth it.

Seafood Spaghetti

After dinner, we walked down the opposite side of the restaurant to Middle Road, where we waited for a bus back into Hamilton. From there, it was just a short walk to our hotel, the evening ending as smoothly as it had begun unpredictably.

Looking back, the experience stands out not just because of the meal, but because of how it came together. What started as a logistical problem turned into one of the more memorable nights of the trip. There’s something about figuring things out on the fly, especially in a place like Bermuda, that adds to the experience in a way that a perfectly planned evening never quite does.

And taking a ferry to dinner on Christmas night is a detail that’s hard to top.

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Bermuda Public Transportation

Like many visitors, we could have defaulted to taxis or rentals, but instead we opted for a transport pass, and it completely changed how we experienced the island. My wife and I purchased a two-day pass, which saved us money compared to paying per ride, but in hindsight, a three-day pass would have been the better choice given how often we used it.

Simple, Efficient, and Easy to Learn

Bermuda’s bus system is surprisingly intuitive. The island runs roughly east to west, with Hamilton as the central hub, and the routes extend outward in both directions. What makes it even easier is the color-coded bus stops:

• Pink poles = buses heading into Hamilton

• Blue poles = buses heading away from Hamilton

That small detail removes most of the guesswork. Once you understand that system, navigating the island becomes straightforward.

Image: Bermuda Public Transportation Website

The buses themselves were clean, comfortable, and generally on schedule. We had no issues hopping on and off throughout the week, whether we were heading to the beaches, exploring different towns, or simply riding to see more of the island.

The Ferry: An Unexpected Highlight

The same pass also includes access to the ferry system, which ended up being one of our favorite ways to get around.

We used the ferry to travel to the Royal Naval Dockyard, as well as for a Christmas Day dinner across the harbor. I’ll admit, I was surprised the ferries were even running on Christmas. But they were, albeit on a reduced schedule.

Bermuda Ferry Schedule

Riding the ferry gives you a completely different perspective of Bermuda. Instead of winding along narrow roads, you’re moving across open water, with views of the coastline, harbors, and pastel-colored homes lining the shore. It’s not just transportation, it’s an inexpensive opportunity to experience Bermuda from the water.

Cost & Value

As of recent rates:

• Single fares typically range from around $3.50 to $5 depending on distance

• Day passes are roughly $19

• Multi-day passes (2–7 days) offer better value if you’re moving around frequently (our two-day passes were 31.50).

For us, the pass paid for itself quickly. Between buses and ferries, we used it multiple times a day. The best part of the deal is that the passes can be used for the ferry or bus interchangeably.

A Slower, Better Way to Travel

One of the unexpected benefits of using public transportation was the pace it created.

Instead of rushing from one destination to the next, we were able to sit back, relax, and take in the scenery. From the water, we enjoyed coastal views, small neighborhoods, and stretches of road you might otherwise miss. We also had the chance to interact with locals, who were consistently friendly and helpful.

Ferry Views

We rode the buses from one end of the island to the other, something that might sound simple but ended up being one of the more enjoyable parts of the trip. It gave us a better sense of Bermuda as a whole, not just as a collection of individual stops.

Timing Matters

It’s worth noting that we visited during the week of Christmas, and the system may have been slightly less crowded than usual. Even so, service remained reliable, and aside from the reduced holiday schedule, everything ran smoothly.

Final Thought

Public transportation in Bermuda isn’t just a way to get around, it’s one of the best ways to experience the island.

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Inside the Crystal Cave

We caught a bus north from Hamilton, riding out toward the quieter end of the island and getting off a few miles before the airport. From there, it’s a short walk through a shaded park that gradually leads you toward the entrance of Crystal Cave & Fantasy Cavex. The setting feels unassuming at first, just a small ticket area and gift shop overlooking a manicured park. But it quickly becomes clear that what’s below is the real draw.

Sprawling Tree Above the Caves

At the entrance, there are a few practical touches that make the visit easy. Lockers are available at no additional charge, which is helpful given the number of steps ahead, and there’s a restroom located just across from the ticket booth. Down a set of stairs are two tented waiting areas where visitors gather before each guided tour begins. You can choose to visit one cave or both. We opted for both, and it was well worth it.

As soon as you begin the descent, the temperature drops.

Crystal Clear Water

The caves are noticeably cooler than the surface, a welcome change but also a reminder that you’re stepping into a completely different environment. The pathways consist of a significant number of stairs, winding downward through narrow openings and along constructed walkways. It’s manageable for most people, but it’s definitely not accessible in the traditional sense. We had no trouble navigating it, but we did see a family with stroller-aged children working their way carefully through the descent. It’s doable, but it takes effort.

The Stalactites Create Illusions Against the Water

The story of how the caves were discovered adds another layer to the experience. In the early 1900s, two boys were playing cricket on the property when they lost their ball into a hole in the ground. When they went looking for it, they stumbled upon the entrance to what would become Crystal Cave. The land was privately owned at the time, and the caves remain privately owned by the same family today, which gives the entire operation a slightly more personal feel than many large tourist sites.

Inside, both caves are stunning in their own way.

Crystal Cave is known for its dramatic underground lake, where clear water reflects the formations above like glass. Stalactites hang from the ceiling in dense clusters, some reaching down toward the water’s surface, creating a mirrored effect that feels almost surreal. The walkways allow you to move out over the water, giving a perspective that makes the scale of the cavern easier to appreciate.

Stalactites Reflected in Crystal Water

Fantasy Cave, while smaller, has its own character. The formations feel more compact, more intricate, and in some ways more immersive. The lighting highlights the textures and shapes in a way that makes the cave feel almost sculpted, despite being entirely natural.

Fantasy Cave

Throughout both tours, guides provide background on the geology, the discovery, and the preservation of the caves, but the real impact comes from simply standing still and taking it in. The combination of water, stone, and light creates a space that feels far removed from the island above.

The caves have also attracted attention beyond tourism. Over the years, they’ve been used as filming locations, their natural beauty lending itself easily to cinematic settings. Standing inside, it’s easy to understand why.

The air above wasn’t warm in December, but a significant change as we ascended back into the sunlight. The visit was a reminder that there is often more to a place than meets the eye.

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Accent Wallpaper Gives the Room a Whimsical Vibe

The hotel itself has the feel of a classic Bermudian guesthouse, set within a lush garden that immediately gives the property a sense of calm and separation from the city. Our room was located in the garden area, facing inward toward the pool, which sits at the center of the courtyard. Even in December, the landscaping was vibrant palm trees, flowering plants, and well-kept pathways that made the space feel more like a private retreat than a traditional hotel.

Looking Down Toward the Garden Through Lush Vegetation

Getting to our room required navigating a set of stairs, something worth noting for travelers with mobility concerns. I am fairly certain the property does offer different room configurations that may be more accessible. Once inside, the room itself was clean, modern, and thoughtfully appointed. It struck that balance you hope for in a boutique stay: comfortable without being overly formal, with updated amenities that made it easy to settle in for a full week.

Bathroom

The pool, while central to the layout, was closed for the season. Bermuda in late December isn’t cold, but it’s also not quite swimming weather. Even so, the courtyard remained one of the highlights of the property. It became a place to pass through slowly, to pause, and to enjoy the atmosphere rather than the amenities.

View From Our Room

Each morning, we had breakfast at the hotel, and it quickly became a daily ritual we looked forward to. The food was excellent. It was fresh, well prepared, and varied enough to keep things interesting over the course of the week. The service matched it. Friendly, attentive, and consistent, without ever feeling overbearing. It set a relaxed tone for each day before we headed out to explore the island.

We Ate Our Breakfast on the Porch Each Morning

If there was one small critique, it was the coffee. It never quite reached the temperature or boldness I prefer. That is certainly minor, but noticeable when everything else was dialed in. Still, it didn’t detract from the overall experience.

Hamilton Was Just A Short Walk Away

What truly made the Rosedon stand out was its location. The hotel sits just a short five to ten minute walk from downtown Hamilton, placing us within easy reach of shops, restaurants, the ferry terminal, and the central bus station. We relied almost entirely on public transportation during our stay, and having those connections so close made getting around Bermuda simple and efficient.

Hamilton itself had a relaxed holiday feel. Festive, but not crowded. Active, but not rushed. Staying just outside the center allowed us to dip into that energy when we wanted and step back into the quiet of the garden when we didn’t.

The Rosedon Hotel is a comfortable, well-located boutique stay that gives you exactly what you need for a relaxing visit to Bermuda. A quiet spot that keeps the rest of Bermuda within easy reach.

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Visiting a Mountain Oasis

Tunisia was a journey through layers of history, each day revealing a different version of Tunisia (Phoenician, Roman, Byzantine, Islamic, and modern) woven together across a landscape that shifts from coastline to desert to mountain oasis.

Market in Sidi Bou Said

We arrived in Tunis, where the Mediterranean sets the tone. From there, the journey unfolded forward through ancient ruins, vibrant markets, quiet villages, and eventually into the vast openness of the Sahara, before circling back to the coast for a final pause.

Where History Still Stands

Tunisia doesn’t preserve its past behind glass. The history and experiences we had was often interactive. To include ancient mosaics that lined the floors within the museum.

Walking on History - Actual Ancient Mosaics That Visitors Walk On

At Bardo National Museum, we were introduced to the country’s extraordinary collection of Roman mosaics, intricate, expansive, and remarkably well preserved. That introduction carried forward into the ruins themselves, where history shifts from display to immersion.

Colisseum at El Jem

Sites like Sbeitla (Sufetula) Archaeological Site and El Djem Amphitheatre offer two very different but equally powerful experiences. Sbeitla reveals the structure of a Roman city still readable in its streets and temples, while El Jem overwhelms with scale—an amphitheater built to hold tens of thousands, complete with underground chambers where animals were lifted into the arena.

Kerkouane Ruins

Further north, Kerkouane Archaeological Site offers something even rarer: a Punic city that was never rebuilt. The foundations of the city remain, creating a map of a once small but bustling coastal village.

Capital at the Great Mosque With Cross Design Repurposed From Sbeitla

Even in places of active worship, the past remains visible. At the Great Mosque of Kairouan, columns repurposed from earlier Roman and Christian structures still carry faint traces of their original carvings demonstrating a history layered rather than replaced.

Markets, Craft, and Everyday Life

Between the major sites, Tunisia reveals itself in smaller, more personal moments.

Market Day in Douz

In the markets of Kairouan and Douz, we wandered through narrow alleys filled with craftsmen at work (loom weavers, metal engravers, bread makers) each continuing traditions that stretch back generations. Sometimes those moments turned into unexpected purchases, like handmade blankets or small souvenirs that now carry the story of where they came from.

Weaver at His Loom in Kairouan Market

The visit also included cultural opportunities.

Visiting a Troglodyte Family

We visited a troglodyte family, sharing tea and fresh shakshuka in a home carved into the earth. In Eden Palm Museum, we learned how oasis agriculture works. Like how date palms create entire ecosystems in the desert. And in El Jem, we sat down to build our own mosaics before sharing a meal inspired by Roman tradition.

Date Palm Demonstration

These weren’t just stops between destinations. They were the connective tissue of our entire trip. They immersed us more deeply in the experience leaving warmth against the contrast of cold, stone ruins.

Into the Desert

From Douz (known as the “Gateway to the Sahara”) we climbed into 4x4 vehicles and drove out into the desert. The sand stretches outward in ways that make scale difficult to measure, and time seems to slow as the noise of towns fades behind you.

4x4s Into the Desert

At a desert camp, we were greeted with music and tea, watched bread baked directly in the sand, and shared a meal that felt rooted in place rather than performance. It was simple, authentic, and memorable in a way that doesn’t require embellishment.

Bread Making Lesson in the Desert

The landscape itself continues to evolve. At Chott el Jerid, the largest salt flat in the Sahara, the ground turns white and reflective, creating mirages that blur the horizon. Further west, the mountains reveal something unexpected, oases.

Salt Flats

Villages like Chebika, Tamerza, and Mides sit tucked into the Atlas Mountains, where waterfalls, palm groves, and canyons interrupt the desert in dramatic ways. It’s a reminder that the Sahara is far more complex than the endless dunes most people imagine.

Mini “Grand Canyon” Near the Algerian Border

Layers of Culture—and Cinema

Tunisia also carries an unexpected connection to modern storytelling.

Sites like Ksar Hadada and Hotel Sidi Driss have been used as filming locations for Star Wars, their architecture seamlessly blending into a galaxy far, far away. Standing in those spaces, it’s easy to see why filmmakers like George Lucas have been drawn to them. The landscapes already feel otherworldly.

Star Wars Filming Location (“Slave Quarters”)

But long before Hollywood arrived, these were working communities. The slave quarters pictured above were actually granaries. The homes, and villages of this region were shaped by necessity and environment. The film connection adds another layer, without defining the place.

A Return to the Coast

After days of movement through history and desert, the trip returned us to the Mediterranean.

Overlooking the Sea From Hammamet Kasbah

In Hammamet, the pace slowed. We wandered through the quiet medina, climbed the old kasbah overlooking the sea, and spent our final nights at a coastal resort where the focus shifted from exploration to reflection.

View From Our Hammamet Hotel Room at Sunrise

There’s something fitting about ending a trip like this by the water. Our trip to Tunisia begins and ends at the Mediterranean, even as its stories stretch far inland.

Final Thoughts on Our Trip to Tunisia

What makes Tunisia stand out is both the number and diversity of different places we visited. The differing climates, cultures and histories we encountered added depth to our experiences.

Farm Visit and Home Hosted Dinner in Hammamet

Throughout our trip, we experienced a consistent thread of hospitality. Whether it’s tea in a courtyard, a meal shared on a farm, or a welcome drink at a hotel, the experience is grounded in people as much as place.

I Said Desert to Dessert…So Here is the Dessert (Le Jasmin at Radison Blu Hammamet)

It’s also remarkably accessible. The costs are low, the distances manageable, and the experiences feel authentic rather than overly commercialized. For a nice meal for two, the price never exceeded thirty dollars total. Taxi fare was generally only a few dollars, even using the inDrive app which has a surcharge. Museums were mostly in the four dollar range, although included in the price of our trip. Overall, Tunisia offers an affordable alternative to more expensive Mediterranean locales.

Tunisia isn’t just one destination. It’s a series of experiences waiting for you to book a trip.

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Cafe Sidi Bou Hadid Atop the Kasbah

As we wandered through the sparse lanes, the usual rhythm of a Tunisian market felt subdued. Shops lined the alleys with displays of ceramics, textiles, and small handcrafted items, but there were few people moving between them. It was the off-season, and the lack of tourists was evident. The shop owners were present, waiting, hopeful, but without the steady flow of visitors that typically sustains these markets. It created a mixed feeling, on one hand, the quiet made it easy to explore at our own pace; on the other, it was hard not to notice the economic reality behind the stillness.

We took our time walking through the medina, stopping occasionally to browse and eventually picking up a few last-minute gifts. It felt like a fitting place to find a few small purchases to mark the end of a journey, gathered in a space that, despite its quiet, still carried the identity of Tunisian craftsmanship.

View of the Town and Sea From the Ramparts

Rising above the medina is the Kasbah of Hammamet, a 15th-century fortress that overlooks both the town and the sea. We made our way up into the kasbah, passing through its thick stone walls and climbing to the upper levels where the views open out in every direction. From the top, the contrast is striking—the tight geometry of the medina below on one side, and the open expanse of the Mediterranean on the other.

Inside the Kasbah

Like the medina, the fortress was nearly empty during our visit. That quiet added to the experience, giving us space to move freely along the walls and take in the surroundings without distraction. It also made it easier to imagine the structure in its original context as a defensive stronghold, watching over the coastline and protecting the town below.

Looking Out Toward the Sea

Within the fortress, we came across a small cafe tucked into the structure itself. It had the kind of setting that invites you to linger with stone walls, open views, and a sense of being suspended between history and the present. Had we allowed for more time, it’s easy to imagine sitting there for a quiet cup of coffee, letting the day stretch out a little longer as the sun hung heavy in the sky. A reminder that our visit to Tunisia was coming to a close.

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Ascending Toward Fortress of Kelibia

The origins of the site trace back to the Byzantine era, when control of coastal approaches was essential to defending North Africa. Over time, the fortress was expanded and reinforced through successive periods of rule, including the Arab and later Ottoman eras, each leaving its mark on the structure. What remains today is a layered defensive complex that reflects centuries of strategic importance. As an interesting aside, we were escorted through the heavier traffic of this region by the tourism police, which was an interesting change of pace.

Police Escort

We made our way up to the fortress and began walking along its outer walls, where the views alone justify the climb. From that vantage point, the coastline unfolds in both directions, the sea stretching outward in deep blue contrast to the lighter tones of the land. It becomes immediately clear why this site was chosen. Any approaching ship would have been visible long before it reached shore, giving defenders both time and advantage.

Entering the Fortress

As we followed the path along the ramparts, our guide filled in the history of how this fortress served not only as a military outpost but also as a signal point, watching over maritime routes that connected North Africa to Europe. In a region shaped by trade, migration, and conflict, control of the coastline meant influence over everything that moved across it.

Vantage Point Toward the Northeast

Inside the compound, we were able to see the remains of the original fortress structure, a more compact defensive core that predates later expansions. Its presence within the larger complex offers a glimpse into how the site evolved over time, growing outward as new threats and new technologies reshaped the nature of defense.

Original Fortress From Byzantine Era

One of the most striking features of the fortress is the presence of large cannons, still positioned along the walls and facing out toward the sea. Though long silent, they reinforce the purpose of the place. These were not symbolic defenses, they were functional, built to protect the coastline and assert control over the waters below.

Cannon Pointed South Over the Gulf

Walking through the fortress, there is a balance between history and purpose. The stone walls, worn by time, still carry a sense of strength. The open views, the steady wind, and the sound of the sea below create a setting that feels both exposed and secure at the same time.

The Harbor in Kelibia Below the Fortress

We took our time moving through the fortress, pausing often to commit our memories to digital code and consider what it must have been like to stand watch there centuries ago. As I stood watching out over the peaceful harbor, I imagined I might be an ancient centurion scanning the horizon for sails that might signal trade…or threat.

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Kerkouane Historical Site Entrance

Kerkouane dates back to the Punic civilization, part of the Carthaginian world that dominated much of North Africa before the rise of Rome. Founded around the 6th century BC, the city likely thrived as a coastal settlement engaged in trade, fishing, and specialized industries such as the production of purple dye from murex shells. Its location along the Mediterranean would have made it an important link in regional trade networks, connecting local production to broader markets across the ancient world.

Foundation of Buildings at Kerkouane

What makes Kerkouane so unique is how its story ends. The city was destroyed during the First Punic War in the 3rd century BC and, unlike Carthage and other major settlements, it was never rebuilt by the Romans. Instead, it remained buried and undisturbed for centuries. That absence of later construction preserved the layout of the original Punic city in a way that is extraordinarily rare. What you see today is not a layered reconstruction, but a direct window into a single moment in time.

Kerkouane Structures

Walking through the site, the structure of the city is still clearly visible. Low stone walls trace the outlines of homes, courtyards, and narrow streets that once connected different parts of the community. You can follow these paths as they wind through the ruins, stepping past doorways that now open into empty spaces but still suggest how people once lived, worked, and moved through their daily routines.

One of Two Public Squares

Our guide provided context as we walked, explaining the distinctive features of Punic architecture, including homes built around central courtyards and the presence of bathing areas within private residences, an indication of both practical design and a certain level of domestic sophistication.

Ancient Bath In a House

There are also subtle details that hint at what the city once looked like in its prime. Traces of colored plaster and mosaic-like flooring remain in some areas, suggesting that these homes were once more vibrant than the muted stone we see today. Even without full reconstruction, the site is intact enough that it becomes surprisingly easy to imagine the community as it once was with voices filling the streets, activity in the courtyards, and the steady rhythm of life along the coast.

Mosaic Design Still Intact In The Floor

What stood out most during our visit was the sense of clarity. At many archaeological sites, layers of history can make it difficult to distinguish one era from another. Kerkouane is different. Because it was never rebuilt, the story it tells is singular and focused. Standing there, with the Mediterranean just beyond the ruins, it felt like an ancient beach front community. The view was incredible.

Stairs to the Second Floor. Waterfront.

We moved slowly through the city, taking in the layout, the details, and the quiet. With no crowds to navigate, there was time to absorb the space. It’s hard to imagine the ingenuity 2500 years ago, but this site helps bring it into focus. It is rare to encounter a place where history remains undisturbed, where the absence of later development becomes the defining feature.

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View From Our Room at Radisson Blu

Our room overlooked the Gulf of Hammamet, with a view that stretched across the pool, rows of palm trees, and the water beyond. It was the kind of setting that invites you to slow down, even if only for a couple of days. After a trip filled with early mornings and long travel days, the return to a truly comfortable bed felt especially welcome.

Radisson Blu Lobby (Photo from Radisson Website)

The hotel greeted us, as many in Tunisia do, with a refreshing welcome drink upon arrival. In the lobby, a large container of infused water (subtly flavored with fresh fruit) was always available, a small but thoughtful detail that added to the sense of ease throughout the stay.

Each morning, we had breakfast at the hotel restaurant, where the selection was both broad and consistent. There was a mix of hot and cold options like pastries, fruit, yogurt, and traditional breakfast fare. This, alongside made-to-order stations for eggs and fresh crepes. By this point in the trip, crepes had become something of a theme across many of the hotels we visited, but here they were particularly well done.

Restaurant Where We Took Breakfast Buffet Style (courtesy Radisson Blu website)

And then there was the coffee.

It stood out immediately. It was rich, slightly bittersweet, and clearly made from a quality roast. After days of travel, it’s often the small comforts that linger, and this was one of them.

On our final night, we chose to have dinner at the hotel restaurant. It turned out to be one of the best meals of our stay. The service was attentive without being intrusive, and the food was prepared with a level of care that matched the setting. It was the kind of dinner that feels like a proper closing note to a trip.

Night Time View From Our Hotel Room

Throughout our stay, the staff were consistently friendly and accommodating, adding to the overall sense that this was a place designed for guests to relax and unwind. And yet, beneath all of that comfort, there was a quiet awareness that the trip was coming to an end.

After days spent moving from city to desert to oasis and back again, Hammamet offered a final pause. A chance to let our experiences from the previous two weeks sink in, to look out over the water, taking in everything that had come before.

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